Jane Pettigrew has been working in the world of tea since 1983. She shares her passion for tea by educating others on a regular basis through various mediums, more recently as the Director of Studies of the UK Tea Academy. If you enjoy picking up a book about tea, there’s a good chance you have read one of hers, too. Jane has an extensive library of books she wrote on the subject of tea. She has published 17 — World of Tea being her most recent. Her love for tea takes her across the globe, exploring tea regions and connecting with fellow tea specialists. At the tea table Jane Pettigrew discussed how her tea journey began in the 1950s, what a cup of tea means to her, thoughts on the future of tea and more.
The kettle is on and I can hear it about to sing. What tea are you going to steep for us today?
I’m going to brew a dark-roasted balled oolong from Taiwan. The dry leaf is the shape of small, hard, very black pellets that have been heavily roasted after manufacture – this reduces the caffeine content and gives the tea a caramelized, roasty character that has subtle hints of coffee about it. It’s an excellent tea for people who love coffee but are also interested in tea. The leaves rebrew 5 or 6 times, so one measure of tea keeps me going all day. I absolutely love it!
A dark-roasted oolong is perfect for the fall season we are entering, too!
How did your relationship with tea begin and evolve into you becoming a tea writer, consultant and educator?
I stared taking tea seriously when I opened my own tea shop in London in 1983. At that point I knew nothing about tea and nothing about running a business. My business partners and I just thought it would be fun to recreate the sort of tea parties we had all grown up with in Britain in the 1950s. I grew up in a family that drank tea for breakfast, in the middle of the afternoon and at afternoon tea every Saturday and Sunday. Either at our house or my grandmother’s house in the drawing room in winter or in the garden on sunny days in summer. I had no idea that people in other parts of the world would become so entranced and interested in the ritual that we took so much for granted.
Gradually, after opening the shop, I was asked by various publishers to write about tea – recipes, history, tea wares, etc. I was asked by groups of American Expat ladies, or Japanese groups to give presentations at their meetings all about the history of British tea drinking. So, I had to research and expand my understanding of tea and its history in this country. Once I started learning I wanted to know more. It is fascinating how many connections tea has with other fascinating areas of everyday life – tablewares, fashion, music, behaviour, furniture, politics.
Once anyone realizes just what tea signifies in Britain, it’s impossible not to become deeply interested and fascinated. I think I can honestly say that I learn something about tea every single day. Since I was trained as a teacher and – before my life in tea – worked as a schoolteacher, as a college lecturer and as a language teacher, my tea work gradually led me to become a tea educator.
There always seems to be something new to learn about tea! I love that we will forever be students of the leaf. What does a cup of tea mean to you?
A cup of tea for me means so many things. It means a quiet moment when I can stop work, choose a tea, choose how to brew it and what to drink it out of. Contemplate how it’s going to smell and taste, enjoy the dry leaves, smell the wet ones and wonder where all the amazing aromas come from, and then to sip and enjoy every mouthful. It means thinking about where the tea comes from, who made it, how it was made, how it reached me from China, Taiwan, Korea, or India, etc. It means getting together with a friend or friends to share a relaxing time of gentle conversation. Also, it can be a time of quiet reflection, calm thought, and tranquility in the middle of a very busy day.
As a tea historian and educator, you have traveled the world of tea! If you have to pick just one country/place as your favourite spot for tea, where would you pick?
That’s a very difficult question. I love many countries for different reasons. Perhaps because of something special that happened there, its beauty, the people I met, or the teas that I drank. For example, I love being in Japan where the elegance and quiet respect for other people goes hand in hand with quiet, peaceful tea drinking, the green tea ceremony, the beautiful tea wares, the little tea houses, the gorgeous countryside and the recognition of the importance of the past. But I also love exploring Chinese tea mountains. Visiting Indian tea gardens in Darjeeling, Assam or the Nilgiri Hills. Traveling through the undulating tea slopes in Sri Lanka. It is truly impossible to choose one over the other.
You’re about to sit down for tea time. Describe how that would look for you.
If I invite guests for tea I cover the small table in my living room with a hand-embroidered table cloth from the 1930s or 40s. Then I choose which tea wares I will use. I sometimes choose a medley of 1930s art deco cups, saucers and plates; sometimes my grandmother’s white and gold tea set that has matching cake plates, milk jug and sugar bowl. My other favourite is a 1930s set of lustre-ware cup, saucers and plates in different colours so that each person may have all one colour or the colours can be mixed up.
Sometimes I serve smoked salmon, egg mayonnaise and cress, cream cheese and cucumber sandwiches, and a selection of cakes. If I have time I bake a cake rather than buy shop-made cakes. I serve home made scones with lemon curd, strawberry jam and close cream. If a neighbour or friend pops in for a more casual cup of tea, I serve food that is more simple – toasted muffins with jam, little macarons, or little fairy cakes.
The tea might be a Ceylon, or an Assam, or a dark oolong from China. Since the food is rich and sweet, the tea needs to be quite strong. Green teas go well with savoury sandwiches. Scones and cakes are better with a robust black or dark oolong tea that has real depth of flavour. I brew the tea using an infuser basket so that I can lift out the leaves once the tea has brewed. Or I brew in one pot and then decant the tea through an infuser basket into a second warmed pot ready for serving.
Music that I might play (never too loud – just a hint in the background) is usually 1930s palm court strings, Fred Astaire, or the big bands of the 30s (Carroll Gibbons, or Ambrose). Sometimes I will play Asian music that is very gentle and very suitable for tea gatherings.
Speed Round:
Black, Green, Yellow, White, Oolong or Puerh?
Oolong or white
Hot, Iced or Cold?
That depends on the weather
Cold brew is wonderful in hot weather.
Otherwise hot.
Teapot, Infuser or Gaiwan?
Small glass teapot and then I decant the tea into a porcelain or glass jug; or teapot with infuser inside. And often a Gaiwan for oolongs or some greens and whites
Straight, Sweetened or Latte?
Straight – always – unless I have proper Indian style chai.
Cheese or Chocolate pairing?
Chocolate (cheese paring is interesting but chocolate pairings are more luxurious and indulgent!!!)
Cream or Jam first?
I was brought up to put jam on scones first, then cream. I prefer it this way.
In your opinion, where is tea going in the next 5 years?
Consumption of ‘good’ tea is going to go up and up. I believe we will see a wider range of better quality different teas from different origins being drunk. I hope the service industry will gradually understand that they MUST understand the demand for better tea. Therefore, brew and serve better tea. I think more service industry outlets will recognize the need for training in brewing and serving tea. It is so disappointing that so many restaurants and tea rooms and hotels still serve bad, cheap, paper teabag tea. However, attitudes to tea are gradually improving.
I think we will see more cold brew, more use of tea as an ingredient in mocktails and cocktails, more innovative brewing equipment. Finally, more understanding of the importance of filtered water, and correct water temperatures.
Find Jane Pettigrew:
ABOUT THIS SERIES: Tea tells stories and when connected with humans, more are created. That’s where the idea for this blog series, At the Tea Table, originated. With this series, The Cup of Life asks tea lovers around the world to take us inside their tea lives to share their favourite steeps, spaces, routines and more. Meet some of your fellow tea drinkers here.
That dark roasted balled oolong sounds delicious as I also enjoy coffee but look to having more tea in the fall and winter months ! Very interesting at the tea table from an inspiring woman in the industry! I enjoyed your section on the future of tea in 5 years from now as well 🙂